Guidance on using the Safety Boats

See LTSC Dinghy Sailing Management System & RIB Training Manual


KILL CHORDS

The Kill-Cord is probably the most important single piece of safety equipment in a RIB.
NEVER operate the boat without the kill switch in place and the cord attached round the ankle or below the knee.

 

SEEKER
To start the engine - 50 hp four -stroke:
Check both tanks are full.
Lower engine - Power trim/tilt button on gear lever.
Check in neutral. Insert key and dead man switch.
Prime engine - squeeze rubber bulb on fuel line until resistance felt.
Turn key and start.
When engine running please check water cooling outlet.
Switch on radio - see separate instruction on RIB.

Note: This is a two-stroke engine with an inboard oil tank which should be checked before removing the RIB from the Albert Hall

 

SHADOW
To start the engine - 50 hp four stroke:
Check both tanks are full. Lower engine,
Power trim/tilt button on gear lever.
Check in neutral. Insert key and dead man switch.
Prime engine, Squeeze rubber bulb on fuel line until resistance felt.
Turn key and start. When engine running check water cooling outlet.
Switch on radio - see separate instruction on RIB.

Note: Both these four-stroke engines have automatic chokes.
DO NOT turn engine over for more than two seconds at a time or it will flood. If it has flooded, lift hand throttle - turn key, close hand throttle once engine is running.

SEARCHER
To start the engine - 50HP four stroke:
Check both tanks are full.
Lower engine & lock in position.
Check in neutral.
Insert key and dead mans switch.
Prime engine - Squeeze rubber bulb on fuel line until resistance felt.
Turn key and start.
When engine running check water cooling outlet.
Switch on radio - see separate instruction on RIB.

FORTUNA
Fortuna is the Club launch. Used for many purposes including, mark laying, as a backup safety boat and occasionally as a committee boat. It is fully equipped with rescue kit, but you will need to complete a handling course prior to use.

This runs on DIESEL!
You should dip the bow tank before departure. Always wear a life jacket/buoyancy aid.

TRACTOR
We are always looking for Drivers, so just apply to the Club Secretary for a short test to be able to handle the Tractor safely.

LAUNCHING
You can start the engine just prior to launching but you should NOT try to drive the boats off their trailers. This will certainly DAMAGE the Propeller and is very costly.

RECOVERING
DO NOT try to drive the Ribs onto the trailer. Almost certainly the propeller will hit the bottom!

Always remember that when you are on RIB duty, one person should wear a wet suit in case you have to get into the water. Lifejackets/Buoyancy aids must be worn when in a RIB. The Kill-Cord is probably the most important single piece of safety equipment in a RIB. NEVER operate the boat without the kill switch in place and the cord attached round the ankle or below the knee.

CONSIDERATION
Please ensure that when the RIBs are taken back to the Albert Hall they are thoroughly washed down, inside and out. Any rubbish, sweet wrappers, cans of soft drink are removed - this helps keep the Bosun happy! Please flush the engine through with fresh water and put the RIBÕs back in the Albert Hall. There is a separate Log Book for each RIB and it needs to be completed every time they are used. Return the RIB keys to the Sailing Office (they hang up on the little hooks on the shelf). If you use the moveable marks, place them back in the Sail Store neat and tidy. Disconnect the anchors and chain from the warp and hoist the buoys up to the beam.

SAFETY BOAT TECHNIQUES/RESCUE CAPSIZE RECOVERY

It is generally best to approach a capsized dinghy at right angles To the forestay. From here:- The safety boat crew have a good view of what is going on. The risk of injury to people and damage to boats is minimised. The safety boat crew can support the mast to prevent inversion. An alternative is to come alongside the capsized hull taking care to Avoid the centreboard and trailing ropes. From this position, the safety boat crew may be able to help the Dinghy helmsman by leaning down on the centreboard or pulling on the gunwale.

SINGLE HANDERS
Single Handers are most-easily righted by the safety boat crew lifting the mast.

ASSYMETRIC BOATS
Assymetric boats should have their spinnakers lowered and, if possible, poles retracted before any attempt at recovery. If the dinghy crew is still in the water, they should do it. If not, the safety boat crew should be ready to get into the water to do it for them.

INVERTED BOATS IN DEEP WATER
In deep water, the first step is to come alongside the casualty, and help the dinghy crew to bear down on its leeward quarter. If this fails to bring the boat back to the normal capsize position, lead the windward jib sheet over the hull behind the centreboard, and pull. A drastic but effective alternative is to take the painter or a warp, and slowly tow the dinghy round in circles so that the water flow over the sails screws it into the 90 degree capsize position.

IN SHALLOW WATER
The mast is easily broken or bent if it hits the bottom, so the first move is to get the crew off the inverted boat to prevent their weight doing any more damage. Any pull exerted on the boat should be as nearly as possible in line with the mast. The quickest way is to tie a warp to the shroud and lead it over the hull as for a deep water rescue. A good alternative or addition is to rig a warp between the bow and stern of the dinghy. Then back away so as to tow the casualty sideways, allowing the water to push the sails up into the 90o capsize position.

MULTIHULLS
The main danger associated with a multihull capsized to 90 degrees is that it will very quickly blow away from its crew. A second risk is that when recovered, it will sail away by itself. Make sure that the sheets and traveller are free before recovering the boat. To recover an inverted multihull, go alongside to leeward, pass a warp over both hulls, under the windward hull, and tie it to the main beam. With the casualtyÕs crew near the stern of the leeward hull, pull the boat upright.

ABANDONING DINGHIES
A safety boat's main role is to save life, not to salvage boats, so it may be necessary to abandon a dinghy in order to take an injured person ashore or attend another incident. If possible, anchor the dinghy even if it is still capsizing or sinking. Tie a buoy or fender to the masthead to prevent it inverting and to indicate to others that a rescue has been carried out. Contact the Coastguard and or Harbour Master to prevent false alarms. If the dinghy is sinking, tie a long line to it and buoy the other end of the line to mark its position.

LEE SHORE RECOVERY
In recovering anything from a lee shore, stranded person, dinghy etc, the main problem is to avoid getting stuck yourself. In light winds and a steep beach, the simplest approach for an outboard boat is to motor towards the casualty and pass a warp from your bow, ready to tow him off by going stern. In stronger winds or shallower water, or if there is any doubt, the only seamanlike approach is to anchor well clear of any surf and drop back until you are as close as possible but still afloat. The throw a heaving line or wade ashore to the casualty. If anchoring is impractical, a possible alternative is to Motor almost parallel to the shore until it is possible to Throw a heaving line to the casualty and then motor directly to windward with the casualty towed astern.

APPROACH to SAILING BOATS
A disabled sailing dinghy may lie in almost any direction. In quiet conditions, it is generally best to go alongside the dinghyÕs windward side (to avoid the sails and boom). If it is too rough to go alongside, stand off to windward and wither throw or float a rope to the casualty.

 

TOWING ASTERN
If possible, ensure that the tow rope is secured to the casualty so that it spreads the load over as many strong points as possible: anchor, cleat, transom brackets, toe straps centreboard case. Lead the towrope through a fairlead near the stemhead, be prepared to improvise, for instance you might need to use a short length of rope to tie the towrope to a dinghyÕs forestay. Unless your own boats has a dedicated tow post, think about taking similar steps to spread the load. It will be much easier to steer if the towrope is secured on or near the centre line ahead of the rudder or outboard, but for light tows outboard-powered boats may use a bridle. ALWAYS make sure that at least one end of the towrope can be let go in a hurry.
NEVER use a bowline on both ends.

MULTIPLE TOWS
An in-line tow can be used for several light boats in gentle conditions. It involves towing each boat from the stern of the boat in front, so it is simple to set up, but involves a lot of strain on the boats and gear of those nearest the head of the tow. A herringbone tow uses a long towrope from the rescue boat, ideally with loops or stopper knots at intervals. If each dinghyÕs tow rope leads from the mast or forward end of the centreboard case rather than to the stemhead, it will reduce the chance of contact between boats and make it easier to steer.

TOWING ALONGSIDE
Towing alongside is more like pushing. It is particularly useful for badly damaged or waterlogged boats, or for close-quarters manoeuvring. In open water it can be very wet and requires exceptionally good fendering. The outboard must be behind the stern of the boat being towed. The ropes used are similar to those for securing to an alongside berth. The rescue boats fore spring takes most of the load when towing forwards. The rescue boats back spring takes most of the load when going astern and acts as the brakes when you stop. Modern rack boats can be quickly and easily towed alongside without using ropes. The crew heel the boat one way, to allow a RIB to drive under the raised rack. Once the RIB is in position, the dinghy crew move across to wedge the rack down onto the RIBÕs tube.

UNDERWAY
Get under way slowly to avoid snatching the towline. Adjust the length of the tow so that the tug and tow are at least one wavelength apart, the longer the better, and consider using an anchor or chain as a weight to reduce snatch. The crew of the sailing dinghy should lower their sails, raise the centreboard and move their weight aft, and then steer to follow the towing boat. If the tow starts to catch up with the rescue boat when going down wind, tow a bucket behind it to slow it down. Waterlogged dinghies often tow better stern first, with the crew and rudder removed.

MARK LAYING AND RECOVERY
Race marks usually consist of a solid or inflatable buoy attached to a length of rope and/or chain with an anchor or mud-weight on the end. An intermediate sinker may be used to stop the rope getting caught round keels or centreboards. A pop-up weight may be suspended from the buoy to keep it vertical.

THE ANCHORING TECHNIQUE
Anchor the buoy much as though it were a boat: Prepare the buoy and its ground tackle, making sure that there is enough rope/chain and that it is ready to pay out smoothly. Drop the anchor slightly up tide or up wind of where you want the buoy to be. Drop back, paying out the rope/chain as you go. Drop the buoy and its sinker.

THE STREAMING TECHNIQUE
This is better when a buoy has to be moved and re-laid quickly or if very accurate positioning is required. Start down tide (or down-wind) of where you want the buoy to be. Stream the buoy, its sinker, and most of its rope/chain astern, but keep the anchor on board as you motor up wind/up tide. When the buoy (still streamed astern) is in position, drop the anchor over the stern of the moving boat.

RECOVERING MARKS
Normal recovery process involves coming alongside the mark, lifting it aboard, and recovering its anchor as though it were your own.

WATCH YOUR WASH
Keep well clear of kids being taught how to sail. Keep your speed down when you enter the Lymington River. The Harbour Master is always watching!


Last updated 18 April 2008

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